Stinson Reliant Build

Discussion in 'Giant RC Plane Forum' started by TManiaci, Jan 2, 2013.

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  1. Jan 2, 2013 #1

    TManiaci

    TManiaci

    TManiaci

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    Well, for a website primarily concerned with aerobatics, this is a little lame, but here goes. This is more about building, and not about the type of aircraft. We have not had many build threads of late that live to the first flights. Most are abandoned after the first few postings. I'm gonna try and do this all the way thru, but it may take a while, with a post or two each week as time permits.

    The airplane here is a Stinson Reliant. The kit is sold by HobbyKing.

    stinson30cc-sub1.jpg
     
  2. Jan 2, 2013 #2

    TManiaci

    TManiaci

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    The Stinson Reliant was manufactured from 1939-1943. It was a very popular small aircraft with wide appeal, and the later production was almost exclusively sold to the military during WWII (1942-43). The thing that made this airplane distinct was the gull-wing step-up of the wings as the exit the fuselage. It's a beautiful airplane with several unique traits that make it stand out. Used as a trainer in many cases, it was a very well mannered airplane.

    The model is designed for 26-30cc gas engine, with a good airframe design for electric. The wingspan is 85", and it 62" long. Flying Weight is estimated at around 12-13 lbs. The manufacturer is unknown, and the information available is nearly non-existent. There is no documentation with the kit... nothing, nada, zilch. If you don't know common build techniques, you would definitely be lost with this bird. I can find no more information that the little bit on the HobbyKing blog.
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2013
  3. Jan 2, 2013 #3

    TManiaci

    TManiaci

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    I had seen this airplane on a promotional add from HK, and just casually put it on my Amazon wish list. I found the colors and the look appealing. Someone decided I needed this airplane, so this was my RC toy for Christmas. The idea of a smaller gasser for lazy cruising seems like where my flying style is heading, so a scale putt-putt is something I have been thinking about for a while.

    Let's look at the kit....

    IMG_0767.jpg

    The kit came with surprisingly good packaging. Not a single trace of damage, even though the box had seen the typical UPS holiday beating.

    The construction is all balsa and plywood, no foam or composites. The airframe is all laser cut and the quality is pretty darn nice. I see a few design challenges that I will address in the airframe, but that's not a big deal.
     
  4. Jan 2, 2013 #4

    TManiaci

    TManiaci

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    Most of the hardware is typical cheesy Chinese junk. Every part came in a heavy plastic bag. To my surprise, there are sturdy dual carbon fiber wing tubes for the main and stabs. The fits are very good too.

    IMG_0768.jpg

    The control surfaces are not pre-hinged, and they provided those silly cloth disc CA hinges and slits in the edges that are really terrible. The slits are all crooked and off-center. I'm going to substitute in some Robart pin-hinges.

    IMG_0770.jpg
     
  5. Jan 2, 2013 #5

    TManiaci

    TManiaci

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    Servo location is left to the builder to discover.

    IMG_0769.jpg

    I found the obvious cutouts under the covering for the Ailerons, but it took a while to figure out the Elevators. I'll get more photos, but inside the fuse there is a double servo tray that suggests all the tail feather servos are under the wing.

    They supplied a pull-pull kit for the Rudder, but they included rather short push-rods for the Elevator surfaces. After some poking and careful examination, I found two hidden cut-outs on either side of the fuse in front of the stab for dual Elevator servos. They were covered, with openings that appeared way too big. Once cut open, there was a shelf inside to mount the servo tabs with a slight inset.
     
  6. Jan 2, 2013 #6

    TManiaci

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    I'm using the medium size Robart Hinges (1/8" diameter), three per surface. I'm using the Robart drilling template to get the holes on center.

    IMG_0774.jpg

    IMG_0773.jpg
     
  7. Jan 2, 2013 #7

    TManiaci

    TManiaci

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    I use Gorilla Glue for these hinges. The thickness of the edge wood was not very deep, so the Gorilla Glue insures a killer bond. I cut small reliefs around the hinge knuckles, wet the wood holes with a damp Q-Tip and paint a thin coating of glue on the hinge barbs. I dip the hinge knuckles in a little WD-40 to keep the glue from getting into the joints. The G-Glue expands a LOT, so I tend them while they set up with an exacto blade scooping out the overflow to keep the foam from fouling the hinge joints.

    IMG_0771.jpg
     
  8. Jan 2, 2013 #8

    Classclown

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    Hey Tony, I know the Reliant is a gentle flying plane and all, but you used the 1/8" Robarts, and only used 3 per aileron, at 85" on the wingspan, don't you think you should've installed 2 more, per wing? When I had the H9 Taylorcraft, I had six of the 3/16" Robarts..
     
  9. Jan 2, 2013 #9

    TManiaci

    TManiaci

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    That's a lot of hinge there WOW (6x3/16").

    Hmm, never gave it much thought. The Ailerons only came with three CA cloth hinges. The Elevator halves only have two. I'm pretty confident the 3x1/8" is plenty.

    I'm not going to worry about it. I will tell you, I have been using these on everything I build for years. Gorilla Glue is just that good. I have wanted to pull some hinges out in the past, and tore the wings up doing it. I pull very hard to test the glue joints. I never see any weakness to be concerned with. Come to think of it, I think I have only 4x1/8" on my 50cc QQ Yak. That bird has seen some serious thrashing. Not a hint of weakness that I can recall. Checking surface slop and wiggle at the hinge joints is part of my first flight pre-flight routine.

    More is always better, no argument. It's done now... but thanks for the input.
     
  10. Jan 2, 2013 #10

    Classclown

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    Ok, hope your right. I guess I do tend to overbuild my stuff for the sake of redundancy. I do tend to abuse my planes and helis when I do get out and fly. By the way, About 20 years ago, I did get to ride in a '41 Reliant that had airconditioning!!
     
  11. Jan 2, 2013 #11

    BRUTUS

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    Thanks for the Build T-man! Who really cares if it is another Aerobatic ARF. Any more, and they are all more of the same. Mid wing, wing tubes, linkages, blah, blah, blah. I really like your Stinson! God knows I'm not talking smack, what with my Cubs and Waco's!

    So, maybe I missed it, but what's powering this bird? 30-50cc Gas, or a brick of a battery?
     
  12. Jan 2, 2013 #12

    calypso

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    Fun project. Looks cool in the air.

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  13. Jan 2, 2013 #13

    TManiaci

    TManiaci

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    I ordered a 26cc RCG gas engine for this thing. I was totally shocked at how cheap these are now. Only $140, wow. When I looked at small gas engines back when I was flying nitro, these things were $500 plus. Now they cost way less than the -good- nitro engines they can replace. A Saito 150 is $400, and the Saito 180 is still $460. Cheaper fuel, cooler sound, less mess, no Glow equipment... glow is dead except on the tiny stuff...

    The 26cc is more than enough. One guy said he flew with a 15cc and it was real strong. I'm not after a ballistic missile.
     
  14. Jan 2, 2013 #14

    TManiaci

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    Cool video, I didn't find that one myself. Thanks.

    I ordered a 18x8 prop for the 26cc. That video shows a three-blade prop. I'm wondering about ground clearance now... will check when I get tot hat point.
     
  15. Jan 2, 2013 #15

    TManiaci

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    On second look, that is not the same airplane in that video. Note the servos are not visible in the aft fuse sides in front of the stab. The closeup of the canopy shows a very different assembly too. I don't think that is near an 85" wing, looks more like a 70-72" wing to me. Could be wrong. The pin-striping is different too. I'm thinking this is a smaller nitro model. That video was nowhere linked from the pages relating to the airplane I have.
     
  16. Jan 3, 2013 #16

    BillFromPerth

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    looking good
     
  17. Jan 3, 2013 #17

    TManiaci

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    Took a few shots of the airframe last night...

    Stabs are hinged and nice and flippy-floppy.
    IMG_0781.jpg

    I have cut the doors and windows. There are door panels that fit in these openings, and they provided strips of the blue striping so you can get the stripes matched. They provided screw holes in the four corners of both doors, but that will be a hassle to take them off every time you want to mount and dismount the wings. I'll use a latch or a magnetic solution
    IMG_0783.jpg

    Looking forward thru the left door, you can see provisions for battery and tank mounting, although it's not obvious how they intend you to use them.
    IMG_0785.jpg

    The canopy and upper nose section slides forward to remove. This is a mystery to me, because they expect you to use this to put your battery into when you run an e-power system. The blunder is that the engine cowl covers the canopy fore-deck so it can't lift off. There are two blind nuts on tabs that slide into the two crescent shaped openings on the front face of that #3 former to secure the part.
    IMG_0788.jpg

    You can see the parts are all laser cut with nice precision. Everything appears to be fitted real tight. This is one of the best no-name Chinese ARFs I have ever seen.
    IMG_0789.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2013
  18. Jan 3, 2013 #18

    TManiaci

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    More detail, this is the area of most concern. The connection between the nose section, which carries the landing gear cradle, is connected to the rest of the airframe at former 3.
    IMG_0790.jpg

    This connection is weak, and in the few posting I have found, there are reports of this section breaking off with moderate landing shock. I will address this, probably with some cris-crossing diagonal carbon fiber shafts that tie the two sections together. A simple and fairly lightweight CF trussing will make it very strong, I know just how to do it.
    IMG_0793.jpg

    The structure looks real straight and well designed.
    IMG_0794.jpg

    The wing tubes pass thru CF tubes that carry the fuse side panels. I see no weakness here to be worried about. The fit of all the wing tubes is nearly perfect.
    IMG_0795.jpg

    IMG_0796.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2013
  19. Jan 3, 2013 #19

    Chad H

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    Love the look of this plane.

    It`s hard to get something else of this quality for what you pay.

    But I see you too are scratching your head at some of the boners these guys pull when putting these things on the market.

    It`s like they plot it in the computer, fly one to see if it does actually fly, and then put it on the assembly line as fast as possible.

    I`ve done two of these direct of China jobs, and another is still on the bench.

    The first two, a 30cc MSX-R, and a 57 inch electric Extra were nice. The Extra was really nice (even Oracover/Ultrakote), and it will match anything out there for quality and flying ability (except the $hit hardware of course).

    But my third one is sitting there since October or so (30cc SDS Edge, build is on here somewhere) since I noticed the rudder horns at the back hit the elevators at full defection. It was like WTF??!! How the hell man did they miss that one?

    So I hav n`t touched it since. A easy fix really, just trim the ele`s down a bit. But it got me wondering and worrying how this thing`s gonna fly, or how much R & D they could have done in the air with it for a supposed 3D model.

    I don`t know if I`m gonna flog it to another poor soul and invest the money in a name brand 30cc 3D ARF, or fix it cause really it does look super sweet, CF tubes, gear and all.

    So I`m curious to see how you get along with yours as it progresses.

    Either way, excellent build your doing on it.
    It is nice to see something different being built/ assembled on here besides a Extra/Edge/Yak/Sukhoi/ MSX ect like Cory said (besides david010567`s beautiful work that is).
    As great as they fly, I`m starting to get tired of looking at the same style of machine.
    Kind of like if every woman was blonde with big hooters and butt. Once in a while you wonder what a red head with bittititties an` firm bottom is like, just for a change of pace, with out all that bouncing around. lol
     
  20. Jan 7, 2013 #20

    TManiaci

    TManiaci

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    Got a little more work done. Bear with me here, I am trying to do this thread at novice level, so some of this will be terribly boring for you seasoned builders.

    In no particular order, next up for me here is the Landing Gear Assembly. Again, no instructions in this kit or online, so this thread will be the build manual for those that read the links on the web page on HobbyKing's site.

    All the hardware comes in little packs, grouped to some degree. This is the kit we need for the Landing Gear. It also included the Wing Bolts to secure the Wings to the Fuse. I will substitute a few items because I have better stuff in my goodie boxes. I have bought a lot of extra screws, nut and other widgets I like along the way.
    IMG_0805.jpg

    Oddly enough, the Axles use conventional 1/2" wrench, not metric. Weird, eveything else seems to be metric.
    IMG_0810.jpg

    The axles are too long, so the wheel pant can't rest on the Landing Gear face.
    IMG_0811.jpg

    Wheel Pants always get broken off along the way. It's mostly because they are only supported on one side, so when they hit an obstacle they deform and crack the fiberglass. I like to make a outer support bushing to provide superior support. Transfer the centerline to the outside face.
    IMG_0814.jpg

    I use some little hardwood rounds, but you can use a cut off bit of round stock too.
    IMG_0816.jpg

    Drill the right size hole for the shaft, a little over 7/32" in this case. Glue it to the inside face with generous application of thick CA.
    IMG_0817.jpg

    Center it over your transferred centerline point.
    IMG_0818.jpg

    Measure to determine the cutoff. I will make the shaft so it just touches the inside of the outer wall of the Pants and sits snug in the bushings.
    IMG_0822.jpg

    When you're ready to mount them, Install the Landing Gear on the Fuselage and set the desired rotation angle. I substituted socket head machine screws with nylon lock nuts on the inside to replace the cheesy little wood screws supplied. Those will come loose and get stripped out after a short time. It's not obvious, but I swapped out the cheap foam tires for a cleaned up used set of 3" Dubro wheels I had from another project.
    IMG_0825.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2013

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