PAU 35% Ultimate

Discussion in 'Plane Kits & Frames' started by Tseres, Nov 12, 2018.

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  1. Nov 12, 2018 #1

    Tseres

    Tseres

    Tseres

    Whiny Old Man Supporting Member

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    got this Ultimat from a friend. Brand new 3 rs ago but never assembled. The box it came in is gone so I thought that I needed to assemble it so I don't loose the parts. He told me there may be some screws mising . He may have robbed the kit for other planes. This is going to be an assembly now and I'll finish it in the spring just before flying season. Just started snowing today. I have about 5 mos to finish it. IMG_6847.jpg
     
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  2. Nov 12, 2018 #2

    Tseres

    Tseres

    Tseres

    Whiny Old Man Supporting Member

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    I started by mounting the engine. DA-100. This plane flies great with a DA-85 to a DA-120.

    The directions on line said that the laser mark for CL are wrong. Gave a a correction for up and down but I found the left and right to be off also. I will come back to correcting this after I mount the tail section. Need the weight back there to balance the plane with the engine mounted.

    IMG_6851.jpg IMG_6852.jpg
     
  3. Nov 12, 2018 #3

    Tseres

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    Tseres

    Whiny Old Man Supporting Member

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    The stand offs are just temporary. I will make a shim out of AC ply when I figure out the back set.
     
  4. Nov 12, 2018 #4

    Tseres

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    Tseres

    Whiny Old Man Supporting Member

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    I'm a big fan of the PAU Hardware. I have heard of some people not liking it so I decided to do an in dept installation so you can see how I do it and I have had 0 trouble from them.

    The elevators,ruder and the ailerons have already been glued on by the previous owner. The holes in the flying surfaces are predrilled at the factory but you have to cut the covering away to expose them.

    There are 2 different kinds washers that come in the pckage. but look alike. The one that fits the V on the flat head screw is the one that goes on top. easy to see when they are side by side. or you can say the one with the larger counter sink. These washers are important because they allow for the straight clamping of the screw...

    I just run the screw in with a drill driver but at a slow speed to keep them from getting hot.
    also just run it in enough to get close and finish it by hand so you don't damage the wood. IMG_6854.jpg
     
  5. Nov 12, 2018 #5

    Tseres

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    Insert the the other washer and thred on the cone nut. Use some blue locktite and just snug up the nut with a 7 mm wrench.

    IMG_6855.jpg IMG_6856.jpg
     
  6. Nov 12, 2018 #6

    Tseres

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    Thread on the coupling. I'm using a 1.5 servo arm so thread on the coupling with the C/L of the pivot screw 1.5" from the center line of the Elevator.

    IMG_6858.jpg
     
  7. Nov 12, 2018 #7

    Tseres

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    Next you install the servo. Not going to show that but you do have to cut some clearance in the sheeting so the servo can fit flush on the servo mount. You new people also need to know that you always harden the servo screw holes with thin CA.

    IMG_6862.jpg
     
  8. Nov 12, 2018 #8

    Tseres

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    This kit comes with the Titanium turn buckles and Dubro Ball Links. This is a quality linkage setup that needs nothing to make it work.

    Mark the Center of the thread on both sides with a marker, thread the Ball link on first to the mark install the link with the left hand thread. Then thread the right hand thread into the aluminum clevis on the aileron to the mark. This allowed you to have equal thread on both ends...

    Install the ball link with the provided spacer cone and a flat washer not provided on top of the ball link for extra security. I've heard of hard core 3-D guys wearing out the plastic on the ball ling and it poping off during flight. Don't forget to install the Nyloc nut under the servo arm. IMG_6859.jpg IMG_6860.jpg
     
  9. Nov 12, 2018 #9

    Tseres

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    Tape the counterbalance in place so it don't move and adjust the length of the turnbuckle till the servo arm is at 90* to the rod.
    I use seeping loctite on the clevis screw and the rod. Always loctite metal to metal contact. You can use blue loctite but you have to remove the the screws first. Do not use red loctite here. No loktite is needed at the servo arm end.
    That's it for installing the PAU Hardware.

    IMG_6866.jpg IMG_6867.jpg IMG_6868.jpg IMG_6869.jpg IMG_6871.jpg
     
  10. Nov 12, 2018 #10

    Tseres

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    Tseres

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    I mounted the Elevators and was surprised by the double Carbon Stab tubes. I thought to myself that this is going to be a pain to install. Not so Stabs slipped on perfectly and seem to provide a real solid mount for the stabs.

    I've grown fond of bonded washers so I buy them by the hundred. I witched out the provided flat washers with the bonded washer for mounting the stabs. IMG_6873.jpg IMG_6872.jpg
     
  11. Nov 12, 2018 #11

    thepamster

    thepamster

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    Really good info here Tom as usual. I am certain that this will get the paw of approval from Delilah.:)
     
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  12. Nov 12, 2018 #12

    Tseres

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    I used the paper template to drill the holes. Just a little off. It's not a big deal. I now have a starting point to get it right. Made up the standoff or in this case Shims to have the proper spacing for the spinner... Came out to 1 and 1/8 in. thick. You have to have this first before you can move the holes. I need to move the engine about 1/4 to the right when looking from the front. The height is fine.

    Couldn't find the cowl hardware so I made up my own. 6-32 button head screws and bonded washers for the split area and 8-32 for mounting the cowl to the firewall.

    IMG_6874.jpg IMG_6875.jpg IMG_6876.jpg IMG_6877.jpg IMG_6878.jpg IMG_6879.jpg IMG_6880.jpg
     
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  13. Nov 13, 2018 #13

    Tseres

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    Centered the Engine up in the Cowl. Looks pretty good now. Installed the hardware and servos in the bottom wing. The Titanium turn buckle was a little to long so I shortened them on the ball end side. there is lots of thread left inside the ball end. Done this before without any problems.

    IMG_6881.jpg IMG_6882.jpg IMG_6883.jpg IMG_6884.jpg IMG_6885.jpg IMG_6886.jpg IMG_6887.jpg IMG_6888.jpg IMG_6889.jpg
     
  14. Nov 14, 2018 #14

    Tseres

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    Located and mounted the canopy. Glued the bottom tabs in the lower wings for the struts. Mounted the servos and the linkage in the top wing.

    [ IMG_6890.jpg IMG_6891.jpg IMG_6892.jpg IMG_6893.jpg IMG_6894.jpg IMG_6895.jpg
     
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  15. Nov 15, 2018 #15

    kwilson

    kwilson

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    That is a nice looking plane! I had one of the older versions and it looks like they have made considerable changes since then. With the old ones, the first thing you did was throw the hardware in the trash. The all up weight was close to 30lbs. but it still flew great. What is the weight supposed to be on this one?
     
  16. Nov 15, 2018 #16

    Tseres

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    I don't know the projected weight. I'm told that it is lighter then the BME Design. I'm missing few pieces and won't be getting them till its time to finish it in the spring. I'll weigh it then. I'm putting smoke on this so it may be a little heavier then without smoke.
     
  17. Nov 15, 2018 #17

    Tseres

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    Finished mounting the top wing. Directions called for 1.5 negative incidence on the top wing. Had to drill the center bolt mounting holes after setting the incidence and glue in the tabs for the struts.

    IMG_6899.jpg IMG_6901.jpg IMG_6902.jpg IMG_6903.jpg
     
  18. Nov 16, 2018 #18

    Tseres

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    Got the tail wheel hooked up with my fuel tube springs and the Ruder pull pull hooked up. Also the hardware mounted for the flying wires.

    Flying wires and wheel pants left. IMG_6908.jpg IMG_6909.jpg IMG_6910.jpg IMG_6911.jpg IMG_6912.jpg
     
  19. Nov 16, 2018 #19

    Tseres

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    I talked to Herve today and he said the new Ultimate is about 1.5 lb. lighter then the previous version.
     
  20. Nov 17, 2018 #20

    kwilson

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    Nice. One thing I had to do was use a long all thread rod for the lower flying wire attach point that went all the way from one side to the other. This was to keep the sides of the fuse from pulling away from the formers. I also had to upgrade the wire with control line lead out wire to keep it from breaking.
     
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