Here's what I came up with for air valve, stem and servo locations. The wood was quite warped so I backed them with spruce sticks. Notice the lift under the air control valve to bring it up to the servo arm height. All airlines from the control valve will point down so I can tidy them up to the bottom of the fuse under the ducting.
The inlet ducting slides in and out of the nose and is secured to the nose cone with tape. The nose cone is to be attached with screws.
Batteries will go on each side of the ducting under the windscreen.
Nose gear retract, strut, wheel and servo are installed. The threaded stud that was on the strut for the steering was too short. I could only get a turn or two with the supplied nylon fitting. I swapped it out for 4-40 threaded rod, nuts and new nylon fittings.
I made small half circle notches in the wood retract rails for clearance.
Servo, retract screws were all pre-threaded into the wood, removed and the holes hit with thin CA before final installation.
Plenty of clearance between the tire and the bottom of the gear doors.
Oh boy... these gear doors are quite fiddly. I started with the balsa hinge blocks, ground and filed out the hinge locations a little at a time. Got the door tacked. Still needs a little more adjusting so nothing rubs.
Stab and Fin covering was trimmed back 1/8" around. Stab was positioned very carefully so that elevators are equidistant once the fairing is installed. Stab was final attached using 30 minute epoxy and balloons. Rudder hinges installed. Servo and linkage installed.
Been fitting and grinding at these plastic fairings. I had to remove a lot of material underneath the rudder. I didn't want to do it, but it had to be done. These kind of fairings can crash your plane if the rudder or elevators get hung up in them. I'm trying to maintain an 1/8" gap between the fairings and the Rudder, Elevators. I will come back later and fill the gaping hole under the rudder with some balsa. You know the routine... Beat to fit, paint to match. LOL!