New DLE 55 RA Carb?

Slappy

Well-Known Member
So I put a New DLE 55 RA in my Top Flite 1/5 Scale P-40 maidened it and had two bad losses of power at seperate times almost like losing all power from the engine for a second or two and then coming back up to rpm. Tried again on a differant day with differant humidity conditions and synthetic oil/gas with same result. Thinking of cleaning/changing out carb. What is the proper Walbro Carb for this DLE 55 RA? Any other suggestions? I'd hate to lose the engine on this thing, it would drop like a brick!! Thanks, Slappy
 

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thepamster

The Mistress of Biplanes
Lifetime Supporter
Hi Slappy. What makes you think you have a carb problem? Are you sure it's not overheating? Do you have good baffling?
Nice plane by the way.
 

Tired Old Man

Staff member
"Losing power" at different times does not provide much information for trouble shooting. Need a lot more description as to when this happens, what throttle commands are being given, aircraft attitude, phase of flight like early or late, climbing or descending? Does the engine have adequate cooling and baffling for a fully cowled installation? Pics of the engine installation without the cowl would be helpful.

As for dropping like a brick, war birds glide but require a faster engine out glide speed to maintain control, so they won't glide as far as other types of aircraft. As with any other model, learn the speeds at which your aircraft stalls, power on and power reduced to idle in order to assure positive control after an engine failure. Because of the higher wing loading be prepared to accept an off runway landing, don't try to stretch a glide to make a runway. There are times a gear up landing and a little bottom damage is preferable to a stall/spin into the ground and complete destruction trying to make a runway just a little too far away.

Good looking bird. The 40 is one of my favorites from that era.
 

Slappy

Well-Known Member
Thank you, OK some more info... Level flight, 3/4 throttle it just loses all power almost like the ignition powering down briefly. It comes back to RPM right away. Im using a 2600 MA 4.8 volt MiMH igmition pack. Plenty of blow by and air dump cooling engine. I did take off the carb to clean it and found a little bit of gunk on the little round screen. While taking off the carb I noticed the two bolts were not that tight and i'm thinking I had a small air leak because you could see fuel on the gasket.
 

Slappy

Well-Known Member
Update! I decided to change out the ignition battery to a 6 volt NiMh pack. While unplugging the 4.8 pack I noticed one of the leads at the plug was loose out of the plastic. Viola!! Problem solved. NOT!! I put the new 6 volt pack in started right up and sure as the Sun comes up in the East, same thing. Fine on the ground throughuot the throttle range. Take off and half to 3/4 throttle, steady level flight and it sounds like its shutting down for a second and comes back. I ordered a new ignition from Vally View off of Flea bay as some guys have said the stock DLE ignitions are not that good. I hope that fixes it. Any help is appreciated. Thanks, Slappy
 

red7fifty

BadAss Member
Double check all the connections......What are you using for Ignition switch? Vibration will cause intermittent power delivery on faulty power switches and Ignition cut offs, etc.
 

Slappy

Well-Known Member
Thaks Red, I just changed the Plug, Switch Harness and Igmition. Next nice day we will see. Hope she runs smooth its such a beauty, I'd hate to lose her. John
 

red7fifty

BadAss Member
I've also seen intermittent power problems caused by defective wires, bad solder joints (faulty spot welds from factory on battery packs) broken solder joints, bad connectors, bad switches, worn out switches, bad cut off, and in some cases, a loss of transmitter signal to receiver link, causing an optical kill to momentarily engage.
 

Slappy

Well-Known Member
Indeed, I had a similar problem wih a DA 50. Turned out to be a broken battery tab from a tight Ty Wrap. Had a tough time troubleshooting that one!!!
 

red7fifty

BadAss Member
I had a Nitro RC car back in the 90's. It had 2 broken solder joints. One on the steering servo motor, the other, the throttle servo motor. One leg of each motor would break electrical flow intermittently, and lose control of one, or both servos. A little reflowing of solder, and the problem fixed. But, finding out where the problem was coming from, took a jewelers loupe, and a lot of poking around!
 
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