My new 144" build thread

Discussion in 'Plane Registry' started by david010567, Dec 2, 2011.

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  1. Dec 2, 2011 #1

    david010567

    david010567

    david010567

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    And so it begins... I'm taking on THE monster project. Converting the Meister Scale 100" Focke-Wulf FW190-D9 kit into a 1/4 scale 144"+ TA152-H1 model. Using two Meister Scale D9 kits, original Meister plans, Ty Brown's plans and kit mods, lots of extra wood and a ton of creative liberty.

    Sierra Precision Retracts or the 1/4 scale FW190
    DA-85
    HS-7955TG digi's all around
    Smartfly EQ6 Turbo Plus
    JR DSM R1221

    Scheme will be GRUN 4 of JG301, the only operational squadron to fly the TA152 in May of 1945.
     

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  2. Dec 2, 2011 #2

    Mithrandir

    Mithrandir

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    WOW!!!!

    when are you gonna teach your boy to fly?
     
  3. Dec 2, 2011 #3

    david010567

    david010567

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    Just a mental note of all the D9 to a TA-152H modifications...

    1. Wings are extended out approximately 2 feet each panel.
    2. Wing ribs are now thicker at the root.
    3. Landing gear is spread out a bit more.
    4. Firewall gets pushed forward 4"
    5. Wings are pushed forward 4"
    6. Landing gear doors are slightly different.
    7. New inner gear doors.
    8. Fin gets new ribs for the new "Fat Tail"
    9. Stabs will be a hair thicker to accommodate the Hitec Digi's.

    Funny... I was hoping the Rudder was going to be a stock build... Nope! Take a look of the TA-152/D9 overlay and you can clearly see that the rudder was slightly reduced. Probably because the tail surfaces are more effective when the distance between the wings and the tail is longer?
     

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  4. Dec 2, 2011 #4

    david010567

    david010567

    david010567

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    First order of business...

    1. Hand cut the missing ribs needed to complete the monstrously long 6' wing panels.
    2. Hand cut the additional ribs that get doubled up.
    3. Establish location of landing gear bays. I believe the TA-152 landing gear is spread out more than a D-9?
    4. Substitute balsa ribs for plywood if landing gear is moved out 1 bay.
    5. Establish all additional modifications required to ribs to accommodate flaps, upsized rear spar, etc.
    6. Establish additional stock material required for spars, sheeting, leading edges etc.
     

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  5. Dec 2, 2011 #5

    david010567

    david010567

    david010567

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    Main Spar Design:

    I've designed the Main Spars to utilize a 1/4" x 3/4" balsa core with an 8" long splice joint at approximately 48" out or two thirds of the panel towards the tip. The 1/4" x 3/4" spar core will be capped on the inside using 1/8" x 3/4" balsa for the first 48" over the splice creating 48" of laminated 3/8" thick spar. The last 24" will be stepped down to 1/4" thick. The outside of the spars will be capped full length next to the wing skin with .014 x .500 carbon strip. I will make up a small sanding tool to inlay the carbon. I will shear web the spars using 1/8" balsa, both sides (vertical grain) the full length of the wing panel.

    Note to self:

    Do not inlay the carbon on the wing top spars until they are sanded flush with the tops of the ribs.
     

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  6. Dec 2, 2011 #6

    david010567

    david010567

    david010567

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    All the Main Spar material is now prepared. Got some good use out of my balsa stripper. I overlooked that ribs #1 through #7 are notched for 1/2" thick spars. This works out even better. The first 1/3rd of the spar will now be 1/2" thick, the next 1/3rd will be stepped down to 3/8" thick, and the last 1/3rd stepped down to 1/4" thick. All of the spars strips will be laminated using epoxy creating a "glue-lam" spar structure.
     

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  7. Dec 2, 2011 #7

    david010567

    david010567

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    All (4) Spar Assemblies are now laminated. Carbon fiber strips where inlayed using a simple sanding tool I made from scrap. I must say that these are unbelievably strong and light spars.

    The wing ribs that needed modifications to fit the new spars are complete and dry fit. I did notice that the top spar has a slight upward bend or "banana" at about 2/3 towards the tip. This is obviously designed into the wing because you would run out of wing tip thickness due to the extra long wingspan. Won't effect the flight characteristics and should not be noticeable.

    There are a few more mods to the ribs that need to be addressed such as extension leads, doubler's, etc. that I will be doing while starting the wing skins.
     

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  8. Dec 2, 2011 #8

    david010567

    david010567

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    Here's my plan for the wing skins... I nested the 1/8" x 4" x 48" balsa sheets with staggered end seam joints using AutoCAD. It will take every bit of (26) sheets to complete the skins. I will also apply a small 1" strip of glass cloth on the 4" vertical seams for added strength.
     

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  9. Dec 2, 2011 #9

    david010567

    david010567

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    Oh how fun it is making balsa door skins. Everything is nice and tight. Just don't look at my "Butt Seam" too long cause it will make you go blind.
     

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  10. Dec 2, 2011 #10

    david010567

    david010567

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    Whew... Right bottom wing skin complete and starting on the Left side. I got creative with my wing skin layout and only used (5) sheets of 1/8" x 4" x 48"

    I couldn't pass up this Task Force sander for $3 at a yard sale across the street. I've owned about 5 different palm sanders over the years and this one is perfect for sanding wing skins. I still love my Mouse Sander for sanding glass work. This one runs real smooth and has the perfect weight to glide it back and forth with no pressure. I'm really pleased how nice the skins are turning out.
     

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  11. Dec 2, 2011 #11

    GravyGoodness

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    Awesome!!! Subscribed!
     
  12. Dec 2, 2011 #12

    david010567

    david010567

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    (2) wing skins prepared and sanded.
     

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  13. Dec 2, 2011 #13

    david010567

    david010567

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    I spent most of a weekend working out the retract geometry and possible solutions. As with any build, there's always quite a bit of head scratching when it comes to setting up the landing gear to meet the following criteria...

    1. Scale angles and the position of the wheels and struts.
    2. Tire fits in wing.
    3. Toe-in
    4. Gear door angle in relation to struts so they look right when the gear is down.

    In the following posts, I will try and "Step-by-Step" show how I think though all the angles and issues.
     
  14. Dec 2, 2011 #14

    david010567

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    Step-1... Establish a Baseline

    We now know that the Sierra FW190 Landing Gear have no option to rotate or remove the struts. By placing the retract bodies on the spar joiner I can see that the retracts must be mounted parallel to the spar with no rearward sweep. (ie: Spitfire, 109 etc.) By putting a triangle up against the tire, I've verified that there is no Toe-in or out. The triangle touches the top and bottom of the tire. Everything is square.
     

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  15. Dec 2, 2011 #15

    david010567

    david010567

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    Step-2... Establish amount of Toe-In

    By placing an 1/8" shim under the outer edge of the retract body, I've created exactly 2 degrees of Toe-in. Notice that the gap between the tire and the triangle of approximately 1/8".
     

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  16. Dec 2, 2011 #16

    david010567

    david010567

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    Step-3... Establish amount of forward rake.

    The Sierra FW190 gear have approximately +/- 3 degrees built into them. By rotating the retract bodies up 10 degrees will give us a total of 13 degrees forward rake. I also established that the landing gear bodies must be 2-1/4" forward of the main spar to position the tire in the scale location when retracted into the wing.
     

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  17. Dec 2, 2011 #17

    david010567

    david010567

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    Step-4... Verify Toe-in

    Using a protractor, I rotated the Retracts rearward exactly 2 degrees for Toe-in.
     

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  18. Dec 2, 2011 #18

    david010567

    david010567

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    Step-5... Gear Rails

    Next I prepared the gear rails by putting a nice radius on 3/4" x 3/4" square hardwood using a router with a 1/4" radius bit.
     

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  19. Dec 2, 2011 #19

    david010567

    david010567

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    Step-6... Mock-up

    I removed just enough material from the wing ribs to clear the tire and struts for a test fit "Mock-up".
     

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  20. Dec 2, 2011 #20

    david010567

    david010567

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    I now have good geometry that is very close to scale with the tire in the scale location and about 1/8" clearance between the tire and the inside of the top sheeting.

    Now... Please excuse me while I soak my head in ice water for a few minutes.
     

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