junk engine

Discussion in 'Engines' started by roc111672, Mar 27, 2012.

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  1. Mar 27, 2012 #1

    roc111672

    roc111672

    roc111672

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    Does anyone have an engine ? Single or twin gas engine that is no longer any good . I would like to have something i could tear apart and see how it ticks . I guess if i am gonna be using them i need to know how they work . Then maybe i can diagnose and repair any problems i have .
     
  2. Mar 27, 2012 #2

    BRUTUS

    BRUTUS

    BRUTUS

    Plank Junky Lifetime Supporter

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    I have some pictures... This is what Amsoil Saber will do to your engine at 88:1. Carbon was hard as sandpaper! One stuck ring on the rear piston.
     

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  3. Mar 27, 2012 #3

    Classclown

    Classclown

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    Pssst, Cody, ....... Amsoil Saber was designed to be run at 100:1, run it at richer ratios, that's what you get. I ran it at 100:1 for seven years, zero problems, contrary to what others experienced. I'm not making this up, no reason to. Was never sponsored by Amsoil. Never cared much for all the bs oil arguments, just stood my ground on running it without any issues. Never had carbon buildup. People laugh when I argue that point, jokes on them, I never had a problem. I now run with 50:1 Stihl Ultra HP, why the change? I couldn't get Saber at the time, and I was on my way to the field. Ran last season on that oil, and am happy with it. So..... I'm a creature of habit, this kinda stuck.
     
  4. Mar 27, 2012 #4

    Tired Old Man

    Tired Old Man

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    A little carbon on top of the piston and on the combustion dome is to be expected with most any oil. The appearance of those piston skirts depict what happens when rings don't seal or after a stuck ring. If things are working right there should be no carbon plating below the piston ring. It can get a lot worse than what is noted on the pistons of your engine.
     
  5. Mar 27, 2012 #5

    Jedijody

    Jedijody

    Jedijody

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    I have an engine you can have, it's NIB and never been ran. It will run fine but not with the power one would expect for its size. It would be great for learning basic operating principals and how all the individual parts relate and work together. Just don't use it as a template or comparison for critical design criteria, you'd be disappointed. Chinese made 80cc single with in cowl muffler and ignition, never seen gas.

    PM me your address if you'd like to have it.
     
  6. Mar 27, 2012 #6

    roc111672

    roc111672

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    PM sent , Thanks so much !
     
  7. Mar 27, 2012 #7

    BRUTUS

    BRUTUS

    BRUTUS

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    I know, I know... I bought two RTF airframes with engines from guys who ran 88:1 for years and years. I understand your points, and after seeing the results of too much synthetic oil I always run recommended ratio's. After 1o gallons of Pennzoil air cooled @ 32:1 the carbon was gone. Still some black on the piston's, but a huge improvement. I tried Bel-rey and after not even one gallon the motor faded on a low hover at the second 3D Throwdown in front of about 200 people and I ended up falling out of the sky and pancaking on the runway first flight of the day. After that I sent it in for rebuild... Now I run Pennzoil air cooled @ 32:1 for break in, and then I'm switching to the HP... The 120 isn't broken in yet, or the same 100 in the pics. 5 more gallons between them of 32:1 to go...
     
  8. Apr 1, 2012 #8

    mustang

    mustang

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    Jody & T.O.M. I have a Q. for you 2. after looking at funboy's engine why cant one take (sea foam) and a used scoth brite pad and clean up the pistons and jugs then
    reassemble what does one have to loose would it cause something else to brake
    apart ??
     
  9. Apr 1, 2012 #9

    Jedijody

    Jedijody

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    If they will clean up without damaging them there's nothing wrong with doing that. For some deposits Sea Foam will work, there's a marine product made by Mercury Marine called "engine tuner" that will loosen the hard carbon for easy removal but you have to let it soak in it for a couple days, Evinrude/Johnson also have the same type of product. Don't use it as directed on the can for your airplane engine, dangerous and you could plug up canisters and/or tuned pipes with it not to mention cover the bottom of your plane with nasty crud. Another method of cleaning them is to use Ethylene Glycol antifreeze and a crock pot set on low, soaking for a day or two in the hot antifreeze will do the same thing as the "engine tuner".

    The catch is that pistons and rings for most of our engines are very affordable to replace. If you put $10/hr. value on your time one can easily exceed the value of the parts in time spent to resurrect them.
     
  10. Apr 1, 2012 #10

    mustang

    mustang

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    WOW. thank you Jody for the good info now I know
     
  11. Apr 1, 2012 #11

    Bunky f. knuckle

    Bunky f. knuckle

    Bunky f. knuckle

    Cover shot, MA 10/09!!!

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    Yup, Jody and Pat are a wealth of knowledge on these engines. I value both opinions heavily!!!
     
  12. Apr 1, 2012 #12

    JohnBer

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    the crock pot works great, i experimented on some old weed trimmer motor parts. I had the crock pot set up to clean my saito's when i ran glow. BTW they always came out lookin brand new. the $10 a hour thing i am not sure i would put much import on if you are doing it for yourself, for hobby and have time on yer hands. Its money you are not spending when idle. . still costs ya some to do it, but, it's cheap entertainment.
    Teach me to buy a new house lol.
     
  13. Apr 1, 2012 #13

    Tired Old Man

    Tired Old Man

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    The Scotchbrite method works if you are using older pads. Using a new pad will take the top corner off a piston real quick and if that happens just go buy a new one. Losing the upper corner really screws with ring function. Cutting oil or kerosene used with the Scotchbrite works quite well. The caveat is you cannot scrub hard on raw aluminum. Cylinders you can lean on ok but not the piston. if you scratch the metal you are leaning into it too much. Let the cutting oil or kerosene do most of the work.
     
  14. Apr 5, 2012 #14

    roc111672

    roc111672

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    Gonna get my engine today .

    Cairo, GA, United States 04/05/2012 7:21 A.M. Out For Delivery
    04/05/2012 6:50 A.M. Arrival Scan
    Jacksonville, FL, United States 04/05/2012 3:28 A.M. Departure Scan
    04/05/2012 1:17 A.M. Arrival Scan
    Orlando, FL, United States 04/04/2012 10:20 P.M. Departure Scan
    04/04/2012 1:50 A.M. Arrival Scan
    Jacksonville, FL, United States 04/03/2012 11:02 P.M. Departure Scan
    04/03/2012 8:00 P.M. The package is delayed at the origin hub.
    04/03/2012 7:03 P.M. Arrival Scan
    Portland, OR, United States 03/29/2012 3:08 A.M. Departure Scan
    03/29/2012 12:07 A.M. Arrival Scan
    The Dalles, OR, United States 03/28/2012 10:00 P.M. Departure Scan
    03/28/2012 8:14 P.M. Origin Scan
    United States 03/28/2012 8:29 P.M. Order Processed: Ready for UPS
     
  15. Apr 5, 2012 #15

    Tired Old Man

    Tired Old Man

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    Don't try to fly it........
     
  16. Apr 5, 2012 #16

    roc111672

    roc111672

    roc111672

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    I am going to use it for a learning tool . But i am curious if it is a new engine why not stick it on something and try it out ?
     
  17. Apr 5, 2012 #17

    roc111672

    roc111672

    roc111672

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    Thanks Jody , got the engine today .

    image-2448373737.jpg
     
  18. Apr 5, 2012 #18

    rjign

    rjign

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    Yo Pat, the person you talked to this AM is an engineer...Don't even try to compare him to any other engineer type person you know :biggrin:
     
  19. Apr 5, 2012 #19

    Vital-Rc

    Vital-Rc

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    Thats a nice gift for a learning tool, even included the ignition. That's one thing I love about this hobby, people are always helping each other out for the most part.
     
  20. Apr 5, 2012 #20

    roc111672

    roc111672

    roc111672

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    +1 , there are alot of great people in this hobby . I just hate to go home and tear it apart . It may never run again .
     

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