I am so weak....

Discussion in 'Plane Kits & Frames' started by Super08, Jan 30, 2012.

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  1. Aug 21, 2017 #6081

    thepamster

    thepamster

    thepamster

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    That is a beautiful action shot of your Camel Tom.
    Sorry about your zeros. But when you look at that Camel flying, what F'ing zeros. :biggrin:
     
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  2. Aug 21, 2017 #6082

    Karolh

    Karolh

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    My sentiments exactly.
     
  3. Aug 22, 2017 #6083

    Tseres

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    My son came over today and we started up the MVVS-58 that I got from Steve. I have to use a starter to start it. I can't flip the prop fast enough to get it going. It also got a little hot.
    The ignition pickup was rotated way back when. I think I put the timing back where it was but have no degree wheel to verify it. Do you guys think I need to rotate the pick up so I can hand start it and wich way?

    As you can si it runs gret once I get it running.

    https://youtu.be/X8ni0-9T0BM
     
  4. Aug 22, 2017 #6084

    thepamster

    thepamster

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    Well that sounds like a question for our southern hemispherian member. Lol. I think you retard the timing for that but which way to move it? F if I know.

    Did it used to hand start easily?
     
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  5. Aug 22, 2017 #6085

    Tseres

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    That makes two of us Pam. I'm sure Southern Hemisphere will chime in sooner or later. :)
     
  6. Aug 22, 2017 #6086

    kwilson

    kwilson

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    The best thing to do is set the timing where it belongs at between 28 and 31 degrees btdc. However, if you just want to retard the timing to make starting easier, rotate to the left as you are looking at the prop from the front of the plane. If you want "livelier" starts, rotate right to advance the timing.
     
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  7. Aug 25, 2017 #6087

    kwilson

    kwilson

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    If you print this out and paste it to a thin piece of plywood, it makes a great tool for setting timing. Once you do this, drill the center so it is a very snug fit over the crank center pin that the prop slides over. Or you can make something to press up against it just so that it moves, but not very easily. Then find top dead center. This can be done by feel once you have done it a few times and know what you are feeling for, but the best way is as follows. Make a piston stop by attaching something to a spark plug that can be screwed in to the plug hole. Mount a pointer to the engine so it sets over the wheel. Rotate fully in both directions and set the wheel so that zero is between the two readings you get (top dead center). Remove the piston stop. Now you can hook up the ignition, attach a plug, turn it on, and you should be able to see a spark when the crank is rotated past the pick up sensor. You want the degree wheel to read between 28 and 31 btdc when you see the spark. Adjust the pickup sensor accordingly.
    FYI the spark plug is actually grounded through the shielding on the plug wires so no need to ground it to the engine when doing this.

    Hope this helps.
     

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    Last edited: Aug 25, 2017
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  8. Aug 25, 2017 #6088

    Tseres

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    Thanks Kevin. I've done it before but never had a degree wheel. I used a protractor to get it close. This will help.
     
  9. Aug 25, 2017 #6089

    kwilson

    kwilson

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    Cool. Wasn't sure and had some spare time this morning so I thought I would post the entire process:)
     
  10. Aug 25, 2017 #6090

    Tseres

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    You can't go wrong with posting the whole process. You never know what people don't know or have forgotten. Your post is for everyone. Not just me. Thanks for taking the time.

    PS: I've already went through it 4 times. Trying to memorize the process. It's been a while but it's coming back.
     
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  11. Aug 25, 2017 #6091

    thepamster

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    Great post Kevin. We need somebody to keep this thread alive because we all know Doug isn't doing any f'ing thing.:biggrin:
    Oh wait, neither am I. lol.
     
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  12. Aug 25, 2017 #6092

    Super08

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    :p :p :p
     
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  13. Aug 26, 2017 #6093

    WESAYSORACING

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    Hub dia times .244 = distance for 28 btc
    Measure from TDC mark
     
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