Dle55

kygreen229

Well-Known Member
I have a never been started DLE55 installed in my hopefully soon to be done 89" AJ Slick. Being that the manual that comes with the DLE55 is a little scetchy and hard to fully understand whats going on, I thought I would ask for some advice for carb settings on it for first firing it and then I would guess I will lean it out a bit after a gallon or so..?

I have been around dirt bikes my whole life but these little carbs can be finiky and just want to hopefully get it tuned and broke in right so she purrrrrs!

Also I have drilled my Vess 23A prop and I think I have it setup so I am at TDC when the prop is roughty at the 2 o'clock postion...I will have to go back and look at this as its been a while since I did all that.
 

Tired Old Man

Staff member
Pretty much follows the standard practice they all do. Just about every engine will start with the carb needles opened up 1-1/2 turns each. Warm the engine up for a couple of minutes then commence the tuning process. Tune it for best performance. Wet break ins are for glow engines. Time to step up and break the engine in right so tune it like it's supposed to run today and 6 months from now. Never rich.

No engine should be hovered and torque rolled for the first gallon or so. Normal aerobatics is fine but don't over heat any engine at any time. Chinese engines, all of them, take a looong time to achieve full break in status so anticipate you won't see maximum RPM for 20 hours or so. It will run fine during that period but expect some minor RPM gains over time.

Ground running is ok for tuning, flying is the best for break in.
 

kygreen229

Well-Known Member
Thanks! and for oil thats all over the board it seems also.

Synthetic? semi-syntheic? regualar based oil? I have some oil laying around that was from my 2 stroke dirt bike days. Its good oil but I want to stick with one kind.

Also there is the mixing issue? Iv'e heard different on this as well.
 

Dadstoysbg

Well-Known Member
I say this has a joke "not another oil thread" Really use a good synthetic and mix by the directions on the oil. Any thing from 35 to 50 to 1. The brand will start 300 pages. Maybe not here but elsewhere???? Dennis
 

kygreen229

Well-Known Member
I fully agree. I have seen the oil threads and also the brand wars start. Definitely not looking for that. If it basically is just use a quality synthetic then we are good to go. For mixing I guess I will start in the middle and maybe do some more searching. It's been so long since I mixed gas/oil! I ride fours stroke dirtbikes now days so no more mixing for the last few years:thumbsup:
 

Tired Old Man

Staff member
32 to 50-1. Your call, just pick and stick with it. A good oil is a good oil so simply select one and stay with it. If you run out of that just select another good one and continue as before.
 

kygreen229

Well-Known Member
You guys are helpful and simple I like it thanks. Other forums there is a lot of info but thats leads to a lot of people with different opinions which makes it hard to choose what to do.
 

Tired Old Man

Staff member
Always remember the K.I.S.S. principle. Things, pretty near everything, goes pretty easy when you do. Things don't become difficult until you forget it.
 

kygreen229

Well-Known Member
One other question for the moment guys,, is the little spring that comes with the engine need to go on the spark plug cap? I've heard to just throw it away its not needed but what is it for supposed to be for?
 

Jedijody

Proud father of Soldiers
It's used inside the spark plug cap to enhance the ground path for the secondary side of the ignition. It goes in the cap large end first, squeeze it flat between your thumb and forfinger, push it into the cap on its edge, then rotate it down using a small screw driver to organize the coils.

The other method is to squeeze it flat between your thumb and forfinger as before, then flick it into the trash can. Personally, I use them, ground connections are more important than + connections on an RC vehicle. But I don't sweat it if one lands in the grass and I can't find it either, your call.
 

kygreen229

Well-Known Member
So pretty much ready to fire up the DLE pretty soon. I have never been sure I had the prop at the right spot with being at TDC. I just followed the Hobbico DLE55 manual when mounting it and everything. When the motor is mounted in the standard upside down position it just shows the magnet being at about the 1-2 o'clock position. I just put it here and then drilled my prop. This has been months ago now however.

I've searched and searched and was trying to find a video on this but have been unsuccessful. I've looked at the "beginners to gassers" thread and it is helpful but not for actually finding TDC and setting this up. I know where you want your prop is Can you guys school me on this please? Thanks!
 

Bunky f. knuckle

Cover shot, MA 10/09!!!
Wherever is comfortable to flip, generally......... I like mine at 1:00. That way, you are flipping over the top of the compression stroke. :)
 

kygreen229

Well-Known Member
2:05 and 11teen seconds?? Nice that must take some exact science flipping that every time!

I see what you guys mean with wherever is comfortable but is that it? Does the magnet have anything to do with it? That is just showing in the DLE manual that if the magnet is positioned at that spot and you place the prop roughly at the 1 o'clock position it is the most common (safest) to flip?

This is hard to explain,,,,,do you want the prop right where the compression is at the 1 o'clock position so when you flip it immediately pops and wants to fire?

If that is the case then the manual is weird because with the magnet where they show and where my prop is setup at the 1'clock position it is not "tight" or at the compression exactly with you hand on it ready flip. I'm struggling for the right words here sorry. Instead where its at, I flip and then it hits compression so to speak after my flip of the prop....I hope someone is kind of following me.
 

Classclown

Well-Known Member
Wow dude, ok, here we go, on the compression stroke, before TDC, set your prop at either one or two o'clock. I like two o'clock. As soon as you flip the prop, if it fires, your hand will be out of harms way, because of your follow through. I think the two o'clock setting gives a firmer flip on the prop then the one o'clock position. Stop thinking too hard, your confusing yourself for no reason.
 

kygreen229

Well-Known Member
I may be but just trying to get it straight. So here we go really sounding like an idiot...

Is top dead center when the piston is at the top of the cylinder head? without removing the spark plug how would you know. When I twist the prop around I feel two spots where it gets "tight" or feels like compression. I feel really stupid but i have never understood this fully.

Go ahead let me have it! :)
 

Classclown

Well-Known Member
It's alright dude, I'm no engine pro, just understand how they work. There was a time when I didn't know squat. Basically, you can look through the exhaust port, turn the crank. When you see the piston sliding up the cylinder port, that is the compression stroke. When the piston reaches the top of it's stroke, that is TDC. Right before TDC, the crank will be at 28 to 30 degrees, that is where the sparkplug ignites the mix, that is why the magnet on the prop hub is where it is, telling the hall sensor dirty stories... Get it?

Here's an animation to help you picture what's going on:
http://www.southernskies.net/page_pics/miss/two-stroke_c.gif
 
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