Dle 222 v3

kwilson

Gold Member
Well the weekend was fantastic. I started Friday with the 29x12n and the ATV dialed back to 64 on the high end (from a full throttle point of 101) just to limit the speed. This made for a manageable flight, but still too fast at times. Then on Saturday morning Greg showed up with the Mejlik 31x12s. I was hesitant to change the morning of a contest, but wtf. Luckily we had some fog, so I was able to get a little time doing ceiling checks. I put the throttle atv back to 101 and did a quick rpm check. 5450 on both the Fromeco and the DLE tachs. I thought that was a little low, but went with it. This prop on this engine is perfect for me. It slowed my downlines better, pulled like a truck on uplines, and was MUCH more manageable on straight lines. It was quiet, but still ripped at full throttle if not careful. The strange thing is on Sunday morning when I did the runup, it was taching 5800 rpm and in looking back, it does seem as though it gained power from Saturday morning to Sunday afternoon. Not sure if it is still breaking in or the weather made a difference. It was very moist Saturday am, but drier and cooler Sunday am. Anyway I have definitely found the prop for me.

Speaking to the fuel burn, with a Du-Bro 60 ounce tank, I can fly 2 sequences of unlimited and have a little less than a quarter of a tank at landing. That takes approx. 11-12 minutes to complete and I only use full throttle on the uplines.
 

kwilson

Gold Member
Another month in and the motor is still running great. I pulled the plugs this past weekend during a 4 hour rain delay and it would appear the motor is slightly rich. There was a bit more carbon than I would like to see, but the motor is running so well, I was hesitant to make any adjustments. There is no black coming out of the exhaust, just a nice light green film of oil (Stihl HP Ultra). Is it a bad idea to keep running it slightly rich? Cylinder temps are all within 10 degrees when checking immediately after shutdown. 155 to 165 degrees.
 

Jedijody

Proud father of Soldiers
I don't put much value in the after landing IR temp data but if you're happy with the way it throttles and performs, I wouldn't mess with it too much. If you're like me and can't stand anything short of optimum, do a little leaning at a time until the plugs get to a grocery bag brown, but I highly recommend at least getting some temp loggers to see what it's hitting in flight.
 

kwilson

Gold Member
That would be cool to see. I would also like to know the in flight RPM, but don't have any telemetry at this time. Maybe soon.
 

kwilson

Gold Member
Quite a few more flights on the engine now as I have been doing a lot of flying over the summer. The motor had a miss the other day during the first startup. After cleaning it out with a brief run up, it ran fine, but I decided it was time to go ahead and change the plugs. Since they were a bit dark, I leaned the idle 1/16th of a turn on each carb. Flew it yesterday and it is even better now.
 

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kwilson

Gold Member
Major update: #3 connecting rod bearing is shot. This is after roughly 250 flights. I heard a distinct and different pinging sound, so disassembled the motor yesterday afternoon. All looked ok except the excessive slop in the #3 con-rod at the crank. I also wasn't thrilled with the way the piston skirts looked. I guess I will need to send it back for warranty work, but was wondering if anyone knows of a higher quality needle bearing that can be substituted. Not sure if the crank is shot now too, as I don't have the tools or knowhow to go in that deep.
 

kwilson

Gold Member
It looks like the whole crank assembly with rods attached is sold as a unit for $500. Luckily I am still under warranty, but I worry about next time. Also they said it will take a while because there are none in the country. I think I will start running a richer oil mixture for added protection. Probably Redline at 40:1 instead of Stihl at 50:1.

It is becoming crystal clear why those that fly a lot choose DA, and since they are now available, I see a new 200 in my near future.
 

psycho-patch

Well-Known Member
As far as I am concerned that is exactly what I said to myself years ago! I just got sick and tired of 'dick-n' around with crap...cuz I was out there to fly, not piss around with inferior stuff and all it entails. Said F'it, stepped up to the plate and purchased DA's. Not the most powerful out there but very user friendly and dependable.
My 2 cents worth.
 

psycho-patch

Well-Known Member
BTW, I continue to use Sthil @50-1 but tune engines to be just a tad fat...just a touch fat. Not stumbling dead stick burble fat, just ~150rpm down fat.
 

Super08

Official DA Fanboy ;)
Lifetime Supporter
That is what Jody and Pat long ago recommended staying at 30-32 to 1 on DLE engines even when using synthetic. They bearings fail at leaner ratios on Chinese engines.
 

BRUTUS

Plank Junky
Lifetime Supporter
I was seriously considering one for the mystery ship build, but the combination of reports about open ports, snagged rings, bearing failures, reed failures, and the need to install walbro carbs put me back on the fence. Been thinking of a GP 176 twin instead.

A quad would sound waaaay better though.... almost the same price... still on the fence. $1700 for the motor, $60 for reeds, $80 for Bowman rings, $120 for walbro carbs.... gonna have to chew on that for a while.
 
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Flatspinjim

Well-Known Member
I ran the 222 for awhile and when it was running good it was awesome! But the first one broke a crank, the second one ate a piston. I had it on my Dalton and both times I was lucky to get it down in one piece. After the second one grenaded I figuered out it wasn't worth losing my primary IMAC plane that took me 9 months to build, plus cost me way more than the fricking DLE. I spent the extra money and bought the DA 200 and haven't looked back.
 

kwilson

Gold Member
Yeah that makes sense. They completely redesigned the crank case and shaft and it really would be bulletproof if not for the cheap f'ing bearings. Pisses me off.
 

kwilson

Gold Member
I forgot to post, but have had the engine back for about 3 months now. Running good but...good ole Chinese bearings bite me in the arse again. This time wrist pins. The #1 cylinder was knocking so I disassembled last night and 1 needle was missing and a 2nd was cracked and fell apart in my hand. Time for new pistons, pins, and bearings. Luckily they are only $20 for each set including wrist pin clips. I will go ahead and do all of them.
 
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kwilson

Gold Member
Also noticed the Boyesen reeds are starting to chip at the very ends, so will go ahead and replace those as well.
 
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