Competition Airframes Extra 300 Build Thread

sukhoi26

Active Member
Well I'm glad to say that this is my first build thread here on the Flying Circus and hopefully more to come. This will be a very detailed build thread on the account that I need to finish the manual for this plane and also to show everyone how easy it is to put one of my planes together. The 300SR uses the same fuse but roughly 8" shorter. Please don't hesitate to ask questions.
The first pic is of all the laser cut parts you will receive in this kit. If you notice, their isn't any dark burns on the parts. The wood I buy is very good quality so you don't get alot of black burn marks from the laser. Also a higher wattage laser helps in this process. Lets start gluing!
First you will need the LH and RH motor box sides and the F-1 and F-2 formers. I use nothing but Titebond glues on my planes. You can use whatever you are comfortable with. Take the F-1 former and glue it to the RH motor box side as shown. Then take the F-2 former and glue it to the RH motor box side. Then take the LH motor box side and glue it to both F-1 and F-2 formers. You might want to use some tape to hold them temporarily till the next step. Next you need to glue in the pipe tunnel cover. The grain of the wood is ran so that it will bend to get it in between the motor box sides. This piece also will be used for your throttle servo, ignition, regulator and ignition battery. You can use clamps to hold these parts together.
 

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Dean Bird

Lifetime Supporter
I need to finish the manual for this plane and also to show everyone how easy it is to put one of my planes together.
Hate to take this down the marketing path already, but I will.

I've known "Competition Airframes" to be a building service. This will be a kit of your design you're selling, correct?

If so, when do you expect to have it available for order? Building season is here (for those builder types).

Do you have time to build them for the customers?

What is your website address?
 

Flatspinjim

Well-Known Member
Rob did a set of wings for me. I just want to give him props, he does fantastic work!
Looking forward to the build!
 

sukhoi26

Active Member
Your next step will be the firewall plate. Glue this in at this time. The landing gear plate is next. The long slot will be towards the front. Glue this part on now and use plenty of clamps to ensure a good fit. At this time you will need the F-3 former. Glue this on at this time. As you can see I use alot of clamps. They can be your third hand in alot of cases.
 

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sukhoi26

Active Member
Hate to take this down the marketing path already, but I will.

I've known "Competition Airframes" to be a building service. This will be a kit of your design you're selling, correct?

If so, when do you expect to have it available for order? Building season is here (for those builder types).

Do you have time to build them for the customers?

What is your website address?
Yes this kit and all the new ones I bring here are my design.
These kits will be availble 1/30/11
I always have time to build for my customers.
Competitionairframes.com - Mike Badger is currently working on my website. I am putting a whole new site up with a shopping area for all my planes and aftermarket Dalton parts. It will also have a gallery of new pics and videos of the Extra 300 prototype that was flown for the last few months.
 

SNAPPY

Well-Known Member
A built up airframe for a change, Rob saved my ass at the Joe Nall and fixed my Dalton after it took a dip in the water:thumbs:
 

sukhoi26

Active Member
At this time we will let the glue dry on the motor box. So grab the F-9 and F-10 formers and the two side pieces for the tail. Also grab the two small stab supports as shown below. There isn't a left or right but there is a up and down. The formers will only glue on one way, you can't glue them on upside down so don't worry about that. Start with gluing two pieces of 3/8 medium balsa sticks to each side support. I may have over engineered this area but I was going with as much strength as possible with little weight increase.You need to glue both formers on and the longer stab support in the square hole in the middle. Then you can glue the other side piece on and the other stab support as shown. Once you have everything glued and taped, set this piece on the plans and make sure it's not twisted, then set aside to dry.
 

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sukhoi26

Active Member
Now back to the motor box. At this time we will glue on one of the two chin supports to the lower motor box area. Glue on the smaller chin support as shown below and tape it down. This is right below the firewall. Next we will install both firewall supports. These are two 1/2 x 3/4 hard wood supports. You may have to sand these for a perfect fit due to the motor box having thrust built in. Measure from the top and the bottom roughly a 1 1/4" on each side and pre drill a pilot hole in the middle of the wood. Once you have pre drilled the holes, add your glue and reinstall all four screws. Make sure the wood is below the sides so the top can be glued on. Now your going to glue on the cross support at the top of the F-1 former. You can glue this in at anytime when your are building the motor box. Check the fit before gluing.
 

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sukhoi26

Active Member
Sometimes even I forget to glue in a piece. Cut a small piece of 1/2 triangle stock and glue it to the bottom of the pipe tunnel tray right at the firewall. No need to glue one on the top but you can if you want. You'll have to notch around where the blind nuts go in for the engine bolts. Now we can glue the motor box top on now. Pre Fit as always and glue the top on at this time. Next we will glue on the FS-1's LH and RH. These will glue to formers 1,2 and 3 as shown below. These pieces can only be installed one way due to the cuts. Glue these on now and use small clamps to hold in place.
 

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