Discussion in 'Circus Flight Log' started by BRUTUS, Nov 20, 2008.
BRUTUS and what do you do in your spare time?
Yup, 600mah per flight is what you should probably expect with 7950's and 7980's. I have 8 7980's and 2 5565's in my 40% Extra and my 2s 3200 packs only last around 6-7 flights before they need recharging (roughly 800-1100mah used per flight, including IBEC on ignition). I'll eventually replace the 3200's with 5000's.
Need video of this Edge, that scheme really pops :thumbsup:
Trim carpenter, cabinet and furniture maker.
Thanks man. I'm glad you posted about your mah use. Definitely peace of mind for me!
Soooo.... Slightly more eventful hookey day than what I was hoping for! My buddy Tim took the day off and I decided to join him at LAMA. Got 3 perfect flights in. It was sunny, and a little gusty as you would expect from spring time in Colorado. I'm feeling better about the motor with the new rings, and the tune is starting to settle down. Still not ready to get low and slow yet. In the middle of the 4th flight I did a snap and the plane came out doing the funky chicken. :yikes:
Rudder was locked hard over. We had a quartering crosswind gusting to 20mph. I managed to knife edge the plane around and by the grace of God managed to set her down in a 3 point landing before it veered into the field. I actually think the crosswind helped the situation.
Out of the... Dozens of Hitec servos I have flown over the years this is only the 2nd failure, and the only one to lock hard over. The "slave" servo locked up and the "master" smoked itself trying to go to neutral. I'm packing these bad boys up and sending them to Xpress for service!
Get 'em to us, we'll check them out :thumbsup:
Glad you were able to save the airplane :yikes:
That sucks. Savox have been good servos for me so far.
Cody, all that Billy asked for was a copy of your purchase receipt for the HS-7950TH's because there were no date codes on the servos anymore- without a production date code we don't know how old the servos are so then we have to fall back on the purchase date indicated on your receipt to give you warranty. We're not implying you remove them, all we are saying is the production code stickers aren't on the servos anymore. This is how many companies run their warranty policies, it's no big deal, get him the receipt and he will warranty them for you no problem :thumbsup:
If you bought it from MHRC then he should have your purchases on file so it shouldn't be any big deal. Forward it to Billy or get it to me and i'll get it to him.
I understand, and Mike is going to forward his receipt to me as soon as he gets a chance.
I'm perfectly happy paying for the repairs on the other servos I sent in, they're all well worn and way out of warranty.
Those production code stickers were NEVER on any of the servos to start with. That is something you need to talk to the factory about. I had hoped the non-existent stickers would work in leu of the receipt. We had to wait for the container to arrive before we could get the servos. They are brand new.
I'm sorry I snapped at Billy, but I did have some expectation hitec could identify their own defective products. I was wrong, and I'm mad I almost lost an airframe because of a bad servo.
I haven't not seen production codes present on any of our servos NIB, I'll mention it to our higher ups to see if they can look deeper into it.
Hopefully Billy T got the invoice for my servos......
Billy says he got your invoice so we should be good to go :thumbsup:
Sending positive vibes your way Cody. Welcome to Texas, you, Jess, and of course Max.
I am certain that things will work out fine here for you, I am convinced. It sounds like your servo repairs are "fixin'", that's a popular word here in Texas, to be warrantied, so you see, things are already looking up.:thumbsup:
Thanks Pamster. Been stressing out! Lots of wheels turning right now.
Well, last trip out started great. My buddy Tim brought out his old AW 50cc edge 540 for a re-maiden with his new dx18. I took a flight to make sure the new 7950s were going to work, and limber up my thumbs. Engine was still pretty rich and burbling so I barely tweaked the high needle 1/8 turn so it would peak without surging/ 4 stroking.
Got a few flights in, started bringing it down and doing more 3d. Sun came out, and despite some wind Buzz from Magnum fuels shot some video, and the plane was flying great. I'm still a little rusty, it's a little tailheavy, and this plane is so responsive to control inputs it was hard not overcontrolling! Plus, I'm still getting my rates dialed in. My buddy Tim shot some video on Facebook, so that was cool. Not my best flight, but it does show some of what this awesome airplane is capable of! Hopefully Buzz can shoot me over some still pics.
It was time to charge up my batteries, and when I pulled the canopy hatch I saw one of the canopy dowels fell out. I mentioned it might be time to put the plane away, but Tim said he would stick around if I wanted to burn more gas. So I said OK. As soon as I throttled up and the plane moved some geotex from the runway blew up and caught the tailwheel hard. Plane was thrown sideways and jammed the left wheelpant and axle into the runway making another tear and almost ripping my gear off. My 2nd sign I should have stayed on the ground. Nothing but my wheel pant was broken, so we started it back up and went flying. About 4 minutes in doing lots of 3D, lots of low and slow the engine just stopped about 20' up during a rolling harrier. Nothing to do but level the wings and watch it plant itself in the field inverted.
The plane is pretty rough. Prop, cowl, motorbox, canopy hatch, rudder, hinges, wingtip, and fuselage sides have substantial damage. I checked the Venom temp guage- my previous high temp was 287. This flight 351! I can only assume it got too hot doing low and slow and the carb vapor locked. Even with all my baffling, and plenty of exit air it just wasn't enough. The engine was still acting rich and changing tune so... I'm going to check the plugs and see what they say.
Anyway- plane flies great, and I will get to be the guinea pig on Aeroplus "Free wood" program. I will be ordering a new cowl, canopy hatch, and rudder from AP in addition to wood for the motorbox, wingtip, F1, pipe tunnel, and maybe some pieces for the fuselage and covering for the VW symbol on the belly pan.
Wow sorry to hear about that. It's always hard to see the signs until after the fact.
Sounds like you are repairable though. The plane overall doesn't look bad at all.
Wow that is HOT. I wonder if the front holes are big enough. You may have to consider baffling like we do the 4 cylinders with a plate that completely surrounds the engine and seals off the top of the cowling. Also not sure if you have an air dam in front of the exit area, but I have heard that really helps...especially if flying slow 3d. In an upright harrier, air can pressurize the lower half of the cowl due to the high angle of attack and seriously impede airflow.
Sounds like over heating to me also. I had a problem with my AJ Lazer. Ran great on the ground. about 4 minutes into every flight it would Quit. I Expected this so I flew high and was able to land every time. Kept ritchening the needles and got it to fly for 6 minutes before it would quit. The problem was the shape of the cowl and where I put the Exit hole. The hole was big enough but it went to far forward on the radius. It created back pressure inside the cowel. Air had nowhere to go. I had to patch the front and open up the bottom of the plane in front of the Gear. I also closed of the tunnel and made an interior dam to channel the air out. That worked great. Re tuned it and it never quit after that.
Sorry I don't have any pictures. Lost them in my computer that crapped out on me.
Some fun before the mess.
I thought I did a pretty good baffling the engine- I will definitely make the intake holes bigger next time. I already made the stock holes 1" bigger! I made sure the pipe tunnel was open, had a lip made out of 1/2" balsa tri-stock, and had the holes behind the mufflers and the stock exhaust dump. I was doing mostly inverted harriers, so I thought I was pulling enough hot air. I checked the plugs- they were both solid black. Not wet, but black.
Oh well, waiting for word from AP what everything is going to cost. Might buy a new fuse. Might fix what I got.
Did you have that hole where your thumb is closed off? Also the bottom baffle plate should be at least 1/3 of the way up from the bottom of the cooling fins.
Yep, bottom hole was closed off. On the next one I will move the baffle up a bit.
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