Discussion in 'Plane Registry' started by Chad H, Dec 3, 2010.
Looks like the ring disintegrated. :yikes:
The only thing that was damage was the ring. broke in 3 places.
I got a new, piston, ring... ran it for a tank tonight! I'm back on track!
Good news! Engine work perfect! 5 flights today :crazy:
Hey that`s great Choopi. It is a great feeling after working on your own engine to hear it bark to life again. Kind of like this:
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rSCBvu_kijo&feature=related]Frankenstein - 1931 - "It's Alive!" - YouTube[/ame]
It`s a great part of the hobby that just does not happen if you fly electrics only.
I can`t believe after looking at the piston that you had no scoring on the cylinder wall.
I like your blue version way better than the yellow Breitling I have. Not so plane Jane.
And man that sure is a sweet looking flying field you got!
Thanks! It's alive! Not to bad of a field! Today we went to a paved rwy! Good place for my Habu 32!
A quick question here, I'm using a LIFE 6.6v on the DLE30 igition, is this ok? According to them, it's ok: DLE Gasoline Engines - DLE-30 Gas Engine
That`s funny, before DLE stated not to exceed 6 volts max on their ignition modules.
So I have been running a SmartFly ignition regulator on both my 55 and 30.
I will have to dig out where I read this.....
That is what I always did but...???
Ok, I went back to a 4.8v nimh, according to some anything above 6v will eventually damage the ignition.
Funny about the Sundown! Yap if I can sell it and get one of those Edge! Or maybe the Yak55.
Thank you for an excellent build discussion you’ve created here. I’m from Victoria Australia and have recently acquired a DLE-30 and am looking at putting it in the exact same model. (Except it will be the Matt Hall version of course!) Seeing as NZ is just a short flight over the ocean from us, won’t take too long to get here and the quality of the model as you’ve described seems to be fantastic for the price. Anyway, to get to my point, I was wondering if you could answer a couple of build questions that I don’t recall seeing through out your thread.
1. I have zero experience with Gas engines. Can you please clarify that the breather tube runs directly out of the airframe and isn’t connected to anything. Like the glow engines have the pressure line, do gassers not require the pressure line?
2. You originally had a servo for the choke on the engine, then later you said you got rid of it to help with CG. How do you adjust the choke now? And could you have put it back in seeing as how you had to move a bat pack forward anyway?
3. Are you happy with the control horns and their strength? They look just like breadboard for circuitboards, which I thought are very brittle normally. Any issues with these? What sort of glue did you use to put them in?
4. Did you balance the plane with tank full or empty?
5. You mention using 5 JR servos, does this mean there are 2 elevator servos?
Actually reading back on this, my questions really have nothing to do with the kit itself, just general build questions. So I’ll understand if you don’t want to answer them in this thread.
Thanks for any help you can provide. Its just coming into good flying weather here so I’d hope to get this up and running in the next couple of weeks, fingers crossed.
Most model gas engines have a fuel pump made into the carb, and require no extra pressure line. The DLE Walbro copy on the 30cc has a diaphragm pump made in it.
I had trouble the very first time starting my 30, and had to prime/squirt some fuel in the carb only that once.
Ever since then, it kicks with the choke on when cold after about six to twelve flips (I pump the fuel out of the tank and lines completely dry after a flying session, as I store my models in the basement of my home), and then starts on the next flip after opening the choke. The rest of the day it requires no choke. Starts in a couple flips.
I ran the vent tubing first up and half looped it on top the tank. This stops the fuel from siphoning out when the tank is full of fuel, when the model is up right. Then the vent tubing goes towards the firewall and down and out a hole drilled in the top of canister box, then through a hole the bottom of the cowl. This stops the fuel from siphoning out when the model is inverted. A rubber grommet is placed in the cowl to stop the sharp edge from cutting the tubing. This is a simple two line system that works very well. It also lets the extra fuel out and down when filling when the tank gets full. Note pic below.
I was choking the engine using a ball link on the carb choke arm, to a threaded rod bent so it was aiming at the left vortec hole where I could reach it with my fingers. I made a aluminum support bracket for the rod to pass through that was bolted on the top left mounting lug of the engine. A rubber or plastic bushing must be used also here for the push rod to slide through, or the vibration from the engine will buzz the bracket hole bigger in no time.
Although I ended up needing a bit of nose weight, I elected not to put the choke servo back in and just move one of the battery packs ahead. I think every ounce of weight lost makes for a better performing model and a slower stall speed. I use a choke servo in my 50cc model, but feel now it is a mistake I made to use one on this size model, and will not use one on my next 30cc ship this winter.
Always balance your models with a empty fuel tank. That is how your flight will eventually end up, or close too it. If your model is balanced with a rear ward CG for 3D already, and trimmed with a full tank of fuel, it will be even more sensitive in pitch on your final, which can lead to roller coaster landing. Most models have the tank right back to the wing tube, but it is still ahead of the CG.
Yes I used a servo for each elevator half. It is the easiest way to do it, giving you the strongest, most direct, and shortest linkage to the elevators. The holes are there for the servo`s in the fuse, and the extra hardware provided.
I think the fiber horns used in pairs they give you are awesome, and when epoxied in with a ball link in the middle make a super strong, light truss like control rod attachment. Way lighter than using two metal horns and six wood screws into a hardwood point in the structure like another model I have has. I was a skeptic before looking at them too, but I`m sold now on fiber horns. A smaller model I have only uses one horn, but they are carbon fiber. On a 100cc model I would want dual CF horns myself.
I also now would recommend to solder on ring barbs on each side of the bung for the brass fuel tubing for the tank. Your LHS can get them for you. The Tygon tubing swells once it is whetted with petrol, and I had the lines slide on me even with the zip ties. The provided clunk first fell off also, so I changed it to a Dubro one with dual sharp barbs. It is the little things like this that can cause you to lose your model. I got lucky twice if you read my flight log on here.
If there is any other way I can help let me know.
Let us know when you get your MSX-R, what you think of it, and how you get along with the build.
Awesome Chad, thank you for your reply and the photos. I do understand the setup a lot better now. I was wondering about the rudder system and the wire. You mentioned that you used your own brass tubing to loop the cable through and then crimp it. What do you use to crimp the tubing? And you also say that you cross the wires over, do the cables rub on each other when moving the rudder?
I can't wait to see the Matt Hall version, although Matt's plane now has a completely new design on his new plane, I think the Peak model desing still looks great.
Thanks again and I will definitely let you know how I go and I will check out your flight log.
I crossed the pull pull wires as this gives the wire a straight shot through the motion of movement from the 3 inch arm to the opposite horn on the rudder.
If you run them parallel and straight on this model, they touch the outlet hole in the fuse, and it interferes/bends the cable through the movement.
I use a dull pair of side cutters to crimp the tubing, and do each tube three times. I am very, very careful when doing this. The cable is looped through a second time before crimping. After, a drop of CA is put on each side of the crimp tube for added security. See photo below.
The cables do touch. Some guys get all paranoid about this. I have slid on a extra long length of heat shrink tubing, but don`t bother any more. You gotta do a $h!t load of flying to fray them. But hey, if it can get you it will, so put something over a cable, it might pay off.
Great photo Chad, exactly what I wanted to see and now I understand completely how it works, well in theory anyway. Time will tell how easy/hard it is in practice.
Thanks again for your invaluable help, much appreciated.
Great thread guys, i know its 4 years old but i just got my mxsr from peak models.
Does anyone know what covering are they using on a blue scheme? And also did anyone have to open servo openings up on the wings, it seems like my servos dont fit.
Not sure what is exact color, I don't have the model anymore. I'm pretty sure that it's Chinese equivalent to Hangar9 ultracote
Thanks choopi for replying, another question is would savox 0251 for rudeer with 222 oz and savox 0252 with 145 oz for elevators and savox low profile 1251 with 125 oz of torque be enough? Im not planning on doing 3d with ith just some sport flying
I screwed it up today when i was to mount the dle 35 and istead of downloading a template for the dle 35 i downloaded the 30cc version. So now i have to epoxy wooden dowels in the firewall.
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