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junk engine

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Old 03-26-2012, 06:45 PM   #1
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Default junk engine

Does anyone have an engine ? Single or twin gas engine that is no longer any good . I would like to have something i could tear apart and see how it ticks . I guess if i am gonna be using them i need to know how they work . Then maybe i can diagnose and repair any problems i have .



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Old 03-26-2012, 11:11 PM   #2
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Default Re: junk engine

I have some pictures... This is what Amsoil Saber will do to your engine at 88:1. Carbon was hard as sandpaper! One stuck ring on the rear piston.



IMG_6328.jpg   IMG_6327.jpg   IMG_6342.jpg  
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Old 03-27-2012, 01:40 AM   #3
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Pssst, Cody, ....... Amsoil Saber was designed to be run at 100:1, run it at richer ratios, that's what you get. I ran it at 100:1 for seven years, zero problems, contrary to what others experienced. I'm not making this up, no reason to. Was never sponsored by Amsoil. Never cared much for all the bs oil arguments, just stood my ground on running it without any issues. Never had carbon buildup. People laugh when I argue that point, jokes on them, I never had a problem. I now run with 50:1 Stihl Ultra HP, why the change? I couldn't get Saber at the time, and I was on my way to the field. Ran last season on that oil, and am happy with it. So..... I'm a creature of habit, this kinda stuck.

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Old 03-27-2012, 05:30 AM   #4
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Default Re: junk engine

A little carbon on top of the piston and on the combustion dome is to be expected with most any oil. The appearance of those piston skirts depict what happens when rings don't seal or after a stuck ring. If things are working right there should be no carbon plating below the piston ring. It can get a lot worse than what is noted on the pistons of your engine.

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Old 03-27-2012, 05:40 AM   #5
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Default Re: junk engine

Quote:
Originally Posted by roc111672 View Post
Does anyone have an engine ? Single or twin gas engine that is no longer any good . I would like to have something i could tear apart and see how it ticks . I guess if i am gonna be using them i need to know how they work . Then maybe i can diagnose and repair any problems i have .
I have an engine you can have, it's NIB and never been ran. It will run fine but not with the power one would expect for its size. It would be great for learning basic operating principals and how all the individual parts relate and work together. Just don't use it as a template or comparison for critical design criteria, you'd be disappointed. Chinese made 80cc single with in cowl muffler and ignition, never seen gas.

PM me your address if you'd like to have it.
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Old 03-27-2012, 06:23 AM   #6
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PM sent , Thanks so much !

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Old 03-27-2012, 06:34 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Classclown View Post
Pssst, Cody, ....... Amsoil Saber was designed to be run at 100:1, run it at richer ratios, that's what you get. I ran it at 100:1 for seven years, zero problems, contrary to what others experienced. I'm not making this up, no reason to. Was never sponsored by Amsoil. Never cared much for all the bs oil arguments, just stood my ground on running it without any issues. Never had carbon buildup. People laugh when I argue that point, jokes on them, I never had a problem. I now run with 50:1 Stihl Ultra HP, why the change? I couldn't get Saber at the time, and I was on my way to the field. Ran last season on that oil, and am happy with it. So..... I'm a creature of habit, this kinda stuck.
I know, I know... I bought two RTF airframes with engines from guys who ran 88:1 for years and years. I understand your points, and after seeing the results of too much synthetic oil I always run recommended ratio's. After 1o gallons of Pennzoil air cooled @ 32:1 the carbon was gone. Still some black on the piston's, but a huge improvement. I tried Bel-rey and after not even one gallon the motor faded on a low hover at the second 3D Throwdown in front of about 200 people and I ended up falling out of the sky and pancaking on the runway first flight of the day. After that I sent it in for rebuild... Now I run Pennzoil air cooled @ 32:1 for break in, and then I'm switching to the HP... The 120 isn't broken in yet, or the same 100 in the pics. 5 more gallons between them of 32:1 to go...
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Old 03-31-2012, 03:24 PM   #8
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Jody & T.O.M. I have a Q. for you 2. after looking at funboy's engine why cant one take (sea foam) and a used scoth brite pad and clean up the pistons and jugs then
reassemble what does one have to loose would it cause something else to brake
apart ??

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Old 03-31-2012, 03:38 PM   #9
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If they will clean up without damaging them there's nothing wrong with doing that. For some deposits Sea Foam will work, there's a marine product made by Mercury Marine called "engine tuner" that will loosen the hard carbon for easy removal but you have to let it soak in it for a couple days, Evinrude/Johnson also have the same type of product. Don't use it as directed on the can for your airplane engine, dangerous and you could plug up canisters and/or tuned pipes with it not to mention cover the bottom of your plane with nasty crud. Another method of cleaning them is to use Ethylene Glycol antifreeze and a crock pot set on low, soaking for a day or two in the hot antifreeze will do the same thing as the "engine tuner".

The catch is that pistons and rings for most of our engines are very affordable to replace. If you put $10/hr. value on your time one can easily exceed the value of the parts in time spent to resurrect them.

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Old 03-31-2012, 03:55 PM   #10
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WOW. thank you Jody for the good info now I know



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